Don't let them fool you, I really don't' think DISH has a legitimate engineering team. I think the responses are coming from a bot because we always get asked the same questions. They may even ask you twice for the same info. Been dealing with this issue for months and they can't figure it out. They always want to send the issues to the "engineers." All I can do is laugh when someone else stumbles across this thread. Pretty sad that DISH is doing this to its loyal customers. Good luck getting a resolution. If something does end up working, let us know! :-)
Hi Paola and thanks for the reply. Problem is definitely intermittent as this is the only occurance of this since reactivating the system last week. So far, the problem is isolated to the Hopper 3 set and not the wired Joey or the wireless Joey. I mentioned that I use a Harmony universal remote and I believe it turns the Hopper on and off differently than perhaps the Dish remote. The difference last night from other times is that the Hopper and TV were on for longer than ususl. I believe it was on for at least for 6 hours before the problem occurred. It happened after using the Netflix app using the Hopper to control and view my subscription. At the end of the movie, the system seemed to stutter when I told the system to go back to regular TV channels. After a few flashes on the screen followed by a snowy screen, the HDMI link was broken. However, since the Hopper was feeding my surround system via fiber rather than HDMI, the audio still worked. If I changed channels, the HDMI would briefly connect and then the flicker and snow reappeared and then the lost connection message appeared on the screen. As a quick check, I went into Dish diagnostics and got the video on long enough to confirm that the satellite signal was strong before again losing the HDMI. I then was able to get the diagnostic screen back and requested a box reset. After the reset, the box stabilized and has worked fine since. However, I have not had the system on for another 6 hours nor have I tried to view Netflix so the problem may still be there. Hopefully, these information points may help direct you to the solution.
I also spoke with my neighbor and he checked his wiring. Two things learned is that his problem was not experienced on a Hopper 3 and his HDMI was looped through his sound system. Connecting his HDMI directly to the TV appears to have fixed his problem.
Kip, thank you so much for the awesome detailed information. I have forwarded the information over to our engineering team.
SadedraJ - Quick update to the Hopper 3 HDMI synch issue. I did have one failure two nights ago on the HDMI issue. I was pressing the APP button to watch Netflix. About a second or 2 after pressing the button, the Netflix screen showing the Netflix users ("User screen"), appeared and then synch was lost. As before, the screen would flash, displayed the user screen, flashed, and then the screen went to snow, very similar to what you saw in the analog days when tuning to a channel with no signal. It then flashed back to the user screen. This cycle continued to repeat until I pressed a button (exit but not certain) and was able to kick the Hopper back over to Dish channels and everything was stable. I used my Apple TV instead of the Dish to view and all was well. Last night, tried again to watch Netflix via the Dish app and had absolutely no problems. Seems that the problem may be a timing issue or error recovery in your HDMI synch logic. No complaints here but I did want to give you the update on the latest occurance.
As a suggestion for improvement, it also seems that if you are on the initial user selection screen, it is impossible to end the Netflix session without selecting a user and then an "Exit Netflix" option appears. Not intuitavely easy to exit the Netflix app from the user screen. It would be helpful to have an Exit Function added to the user screen.
Hi Kip. Thanks for that update. I'm glad to hear you haven't had issues since that other night. I actually tested out the Netflix function you noticed on the users screen and it does look like the exit option is not included from that screen by design. That'd be a good improvement for us to look into for the future, so I'm going to submit that idea for you. Good catch!
For the last several days, Every Time I turn on dish, Tv, I have to replug the hdmi cable. I have rca cables connected, but tv reverts back to Hdmi 1 when rebooting, thanks to support I have received from Dish Techs. I either have to go through tv remote to change input, or unplug cable from tv to get it on. Don’t ask for me to send you a private message, the first 3 times should have been enough. Thus has gotten ten times worse than it was a few months ago. Does Dish even care?
Hey Chiliog, you might want to check if you have the HDMI-CEC feature on. At the Hopper, press the MENU button 1 time or the HOME button 2 times. Once on the Main Menu, go to Settings, then Remote Control. On the Remote Control Settings page, scroll down to Advanced, and check if HDMI-CEC is on.
Update....... I received a new Hopper 3 and a $10 DVR credit. The Hopper 3 was refurbished and after waiting a couple days to transfer my recordings, the same issue is occuring about 90% of the time, same as the original Hopper3. I still must unplug and plug in my HDMI cable to establish a connection with the DVR. Since the Hopper 3 I received was refurbished, I don't know if there are hardware/software upgrades on new models coming out now.
DISH, what next - how will this issue be resolved? Thanks!!
Hi FunOutdoors, all of our equipment goes through vigorosos equipment to ensure that it is in like-new state before it is shipped out. If you can please send me a private message with your account number and security code, I'd like to take a look further into this issue.
It resolved the issue for me. Keep in mind that this is still a defect in the Hopper 3. If the HDMI signal is interupted briefly the Hopper should not stop sendng HDMI, but I don't think anyone at Dish is working to resolve the problem, all they do is ask for your account number and security code over and over again.